The UK’s fried chicken fixation is a longstanding one.
The no nonsenseLondon chain Morley’s may have gone viralthanks to its sweet-spicy saucecollaborations with Heinz, but its first location opened in 1985. Amelia Dimoldenberg’sweb series Chicken Shop Datedominates conversation; still the namesake chain where she hosts her idiosyncratic celebrity interviews got its start at a music festival in 2010.
Foreign companies have spotted the opportunity.Miami-basedPopeyes Louisiana Kitchen Inclaunched in Britain in November 2021: Its inaugural site in Stratford quicklybecame the chain’s highest grossing store worldwide. Filipino chicken cultJollibee Foods Corp. opened on Leicester Square that same year. Meanwhile,KFC Corp. has beenfrying birds in the UK since 1965.
Now, savvy operators in London are taking the country’s love of fried chicken and giving it an unexpected accompaniment: Champagne.
The trend blew up in New York earlier this year with the opening ofCoqodaq, the Korean fried chicken hall that reportedly boaststhe country’s largest collection of Champagne,with around 400 listings curated by sommelier Victoria James. The David Rockwell-designed space has been a breakout hit, with long lines every night.
London spots, new and not,are now breaking out the flutes.There’s a reason it’s happening, says Sandia Chang, co-founder ofBubbledogs, the placethat got Londoners drinkingChampagne with over-the-top hot dogs before closingbecause of the pandemic. “I definitely see more people drinking Champagne away from occasions and … just havingit as an everyday aperitif or as a wine with their meals.” She also callsout the increased availability of accessible, non marquee bottles.
Changalso believesthe appeal of a high-low pairing is helping tomakeChampagne and fried chicken inescapable this year. Plus it workswell with the greasy, crunchy dish. “Its lovely fresh acidity pairs so well with salty and fatty foods,” she says.
Chang has revivedBubbledogsfor thissummer’s popup at 45 Park Lane Hotel, and there’s brisk business for the fried chicken wings to go with the sparkling-only list of almost 50 options.
One of the city’s neweroptions comes fromBebe Bob, whose oldersiblingBob Bob Ricardis renowned for its “Press for Champagne” buttons at every booth. At Bebe Bob,notably juicy nuggets ina crunchy crust are available at lunch, withthe option of a dozen Champagnes. They’ve beenan instant best seller, but founder Leonid Shutov says they couldn’t meet demand at dinner because there’s a limited quantity of theLandes chicken they source.“We simply would not be able to get enough of this very special bird to offer these nuggets through the day,” he says.
On the new menu at the just-opened-for-the-seasonClaridge’s Terraceat the famed hotel, Champagne is front and center.Ruinart Blanc de Blanc and Rose is available by theglassand bottle(£30 ($38)and £220 respectively). The new spicy fried chicken, marinated in jalapeno buttermilk with a crisp crust flavored with plenty of paprika and mushroom powder, is a suggested pairing.
AtDovetale, Tom Seller’s handsome restaurant in the 1 Hotel Mayfair, there’s a brand new Saturday brunch menu; front and center is fried chicken with waffles and hot butter sauce. The drink to have with the dish, which is inspired by the supremely crunchy American KFC brand, is Champagne, says Wine Director Matt Espersen:“Sparkling wine is a must-have for brunch.”
The options for sparkling wine pairings for fried chicken are almost impossibly extensive at the wine-focused pubthe White Horse in Mayfair. The smoked paprika dusted golden chicken can be paired with any of the 500-strong sparkling wine selections from Hedonism Wineswhich operatesthe pub. The store is a half a mile away, sobottlesarrive at the restaurant in around 10minutes.
And in North London, the dynamic team atPapi, chef Matthew Scottand wine director Charlie Carr are using the pairing to serve a special meal on Tuesdays as part ofa monthlong stint. The theme is pet nat (naturally bubbly wine) and koji fried chicken with a couple options of Champagne thrown in, too.
In fact, Brits are doing a good job of drinking Champagne, with or without fried chicken, says James Simpson, managing director of Pol Roger Ltd. and chairman of UK Champagne Shippers Association. Last year, 25.5 million bottles of Champagnewere imported to the UK, out of a total export of 172 million bottles from France. In fact, the UK is only slightly behind the US in terms of consumption of the French sparkling wine —America went through a little over 26.9 million bottles —despite having only about one-fifth the number of residents. “Considering the population difference, the UK is doing a bloody good job of drinking Champagne,” says Simpson.
Subscribe to The Broadsheet newsletter to stay updated on the world's most powerful women in business. Sign up for free.
